Japan, end to end.

Skip the taxi queue. Keikyū line direct, 38 min. Your Suica from the cheatsheet already works.

The old Tokyo that survived. Menchi-katsu from Niku no Suzuki, eaten on the steps like everyone else.

Order the kushiage omakase and stop when you’re happy. First-night rule: no plans after dinner.

Front-cabin observation seats. They release 30 days out; already in your cheatsheet.

Run it in reverse of every tour bus: ropeway up before 10:30, pirate ship down after lunch. You’ll have Fuji to yourself.

Dinner is included in the room rate, which is why this day looks expensive and is actually the bargain of the trip.

Enter from the Fukakusa side; the first hour is nearly empty while the main gate queues. Climb to the Yotsutsuji viewpoint, no further; the summit adds 40 min for a worse view.

Three stalls, €14 total: tamagoyaki at Miki Keiran, sesame croquette mid-market, soy-milk donuts at the west end. Skip the tuna-skewer queue; it’s for Instagram, not lunch.

End at Hōnen-in’s mossy gate, the temple everyone walks past and shouldn’t.

Shirakawa canal first, Hanamikoji after dark. If you see a geiko, you nod, you don’t chase. Dinner is the standing sushi bar on p.31: €43 for two, no reservation.

The order matters: grilled scallop first stall on the left, then uni if the price board says under ¥1,500, fruit sando for the walk. Budget €30 and stop there.

Tower Knives engraves for free and ships. A €70 santoku here outlives a €200 one at home.

Queue forms 17:30. Counter seats only; the show is half the meal. Yamaimo-yaki, not the tourist mix.